HIDDEN GEM: THE SEIKO 6138-3000 JUMBOWhat if you could find a watch housing one of the world's first automatic chronographs? What if that automatic chronograph was a completely in-house developed, column wheel, quick-set day AND date, reliable workhorse of a movement? And lastly, what if said watch was readily available for well under a thousand dollars? You're either foaming at the mouth or thinking I'm pulling your leg. But this watch exists, and it's manufactured by none other than legendary Seiko. Seiko debuted the 6139 movement in 1969 along two other legendary movements, the Heuer/Buren Caliber 11 and the Zenith/Movado El Primero. It's still debated who was actually "first" but that's not what we're here for. Shortly after the debut of the 6139, Seiko developed the 21 jewel 6138, which featured two chronograph registers and is housed inside the 6138-300X series of watches. I say 300X because this model came in different flavors, the 6138-3000, 6138-3002, 3003, 3005, 3008, and 3009. Seiko made a plethora of 6138-powered watches in the 1970s and unfortunately many of them had strange case shapes, dial configurations and colors that really kept them static in the time period. Very few (mainly the -300X series, sometimes called the Jumbo, and the -8020 "Panda) have stood the test of time. There are really only subtle differences between the -300X models and were often differentiated for different markets throughout the world. The watches came in either a black or rarer "petrol green" dial, and the models have very slightly different case shapes which affects the crystal/bezel assembly and the bracelet end links. There's also a very rare 23 jewel version only produced for one year that collectors should be on the prowl for. Besides the excellent history and design of the movement inside, why is the 6138-3000 series of watches so underrated? Personally I think (unfounded) Swiss Made snobbery has kept these watches affordable despite being an absolute home run and everything you could look for in a vintage sports chronograph. The case comes in at 42mm, massive for its time and still a very modern wearable size. It's finished in a mix of polishing and deep, coarse, almost industrial brushing that gives the watch a vintage charm. When looking for one of these references, it's important to find one that has seen minimal polishing as those original lines are easy to turn to mush and completely ruin the look of the case. The dial is very sporty and fits right in with its contemporaries, but the details really set it apart from many other watches. There is an insane depth to this dial that can really only be appreciated in the flesh. The chronograph subdials are recessed, with sloping rings housing the printed indices. The minute and hour markers are printed on a raised portion of the dial with cutouts around the chronograph totalizers and a substantial step between the surfaces. And even further, the sharper sloping chapter ring marries the dial seamlessly to the case. That's an insane amount of depth and it somehow manages to never be too busy. There's also a small polished applied metal Seiko logo at 9 O'clock, and a simple boast of "Chronograph Automatic" beneath. The hands are simple, but functional and intuitive. Painted white with black bases for timekeeping, and bright yellow for the chronograph operations. Everything you need, and nothing you don't. The watch pictured here is one from my personal collection that I've had for the better part of a decade, and ever since discovering this model I've been singing its praises as one of the best values in the vintage watch market, hands down. Good examples can be had for well under $1,000, and even under $500 if you know how to find the right one. Unfortunately, many of these models were produced which means they were shipped all around the world and many of them have degraded into poor condition or were fitted with aftermarket reproduction parts. Originality is really what makes this watch special, and it's important to find one in good condition to really appreciate it and consider adding one to your watch box. If you're on the hunt for a Seiko "Jumbo", it's important to keep the following things in mind:
So what are you waiting for? Get hunting for this killer vintage Seiko chronograph and discover one of the best hidden gems in vintage watches. Leave a comment below and tell us your thoughts on the 6138-300x series, other vintage hidden gems, and be sure to check out the shop for our latest watches. -Tom
26 Comments
Graeme
4/9/2018 06:11:01 am
I managed to buy a really nice one with the original strap for £140.00 a couple of years ago and have watched it steadily increase in value ever since. I've kept the original strap but put the watch on a nice black leather deployment clasp strap, it really looks the mutts nuts and is better than money in the bank.
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Doc
10/31/2022 01:32:45 pm
got my 6139-3000"Jumbo"S.E.Asia.Had gone through a couple lesser Seikos.Worked on the flight deck of Enterprise,so everything took a sound beating.as soon as i saw it,i bought it.it did 22 months in the MOST hostile environment on the planet.still have it,overhauled twice,runs like the thorobred it is!!!
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Charles Fox
6/1/2018 03:48:55 pm
Thanks for the info on 6138s. I have a 3005 original from 1975. Needs a little work, a good cleaning mostly. Can you provide any information on the different versions (3000, 3002, 3003, 3005, 3008 and 3009).
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denis
8/28/2018 11:17:40 pm
i have a seiko 6138-3000 that needs a good going over.
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John
2/8/2019 02:25:04 pm
Since I started collecting vintage watches, I've focused on Seiko. They make remarkable watches, that as you say, are looked down on by the high end community. I have most of the 6138 versions. My favorite being the 6138-0030 champagne dialed "Kakume". I see it as a square sub-dialed panda. I think the thing I like best about the 6138 is that it can be hand wound. With a collection of watches in rotation, I like to pick up a 6138, wind it 8 to 10 times, set the time and off I go. The 6139's and most other vintage Seiko's are self winding but without this feature. I collect what I can afford and all the Seiko Chronographs from the late 60's and 70s are highly affordable, fun to wear and great looking. What's not to like?
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3/9/2019 11:56:39 am
This is a lovely model although it doesn't have the charisma of a Kakume or a Panda (IMO). I am currently eyeing one that's listed for sale, but the price is still a bit too high. Those 6138 are quite less affordable now than 3 years ago. Too bad this was not my thing back then.
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John
3/9/2019 05:28:38 pm
When I started collecting the 6138 three years ago, you could find really good examples in the $400 range and if you were lucky, find a nice one for $250. Now, the really nice ones are $500 to $600 and below that range, you have to be lucky. My advice is to buy now as the 6138 is only going up in price. If the 6138 was a Swiss watch, it would be in the $4000 range. Lots of Swiss watches that don't have the sophistication or quality of the Seiko 6138 are going for a lot more money than that.
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3/24/2019 02:03:05 pm
My thoughts exactly. It's bad to be late to the party but the party is not over yet (at least I hope so).
Eduardo
5/8/2019 09:31:50 pm
Seiko panda price 1000$ and i want it..
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John Mishanec
5/9/2019 08:08:44 pm
Don't buy the high priced Seiko 6138's as you never know when the last quality service was. Buy a lower priced but reasonable condition watch and plan to have it serviced by a watchmaker you trust. In the end, you have a watch you can trust and the price comes out about the same. Yes, the panda is getting up there in price but there are a lot of really nice 6138's for under $500. You can't go wrong with a 6138 no matter which model you end up with. All great watches.
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Simon tindall
5/20/2019 03:20:19 pm
Hi was just wondering if you can tell me what bracelet is on your 3002 I love it but cant find one / know what name to ask and type in to fine many thanks hope you can help
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Luxuwrist
12/16/2019 04:39:00 pm
This bracelet is from one of my other personal 6138-3002s, which is one of the 23 jewel variants. I have only seen this bracelet on the 23 jewel version and they seem to be pretty scarce. It's an outstanding bracelet that looks very similar in design to the Royal Oak and reflects light very similarly as well.
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Bob A
11/17/2019 05:10:27 pm
I bought my Seiko 6138-3009 in early 1975 through the Navy Exchange special order program. The serial number indicates it was made in February 1972 and it sports a 6138B movement. Interestingly mine came with all white hands unlike the Jumbos I've seen which all seem to have yellow chrono hands. From what I was later told mine was a JDM flavor.
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Luxuwrist
12/16/2019 04:40:36 pm
That's very interesting! I have not seen one of these with all white hands before. Might have to update the post! Looks like I have some research to do. Thank you for your contribution.
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Bob A.
12/16/2019 04:49:07 pm
I've seen a few all white hand varients before but not many. Put mine back on my Sirtoli alligator strap with deployant. :)
John
12/17/2019 10:09:03 am
My Seiko 6138-3005 has all white hands and the "petrol green" dial. I've always thought the hands were originally yellow and just faded but maybe they were white all along. Don't know.
John
3/11/2020 09:42:22 am
I have a 6138-3005 from June of 1975. It came from Mexico and it has all white hands. I've always thought they were just faded from the sun. The hands are original and not aftermarket. The dial on my watch is the dark blue-green version. It's certainly a mystery but with a 45 year old watch, it's hard to know what's what.
Barry
11/30/2019 08:45:55 pm
Purchased my Seiko 6138-3005 in December 1973 and it was made in November 1973 and I still own it. It was first serviced in 2017 and the Seiko authorized dealer/jeweler thought it was a very interesting watch to service. The original bracelet is much like a Rolex Submariner (I have a Sea-Dweller as well and the bracelet is similar). It is a remarkably accurate watch and truly wonderful.
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Luxuwrist
12/16/2019 04:41:52 pm
That's fantastic to hear! With regular upkeep these watches are just as reliable and accurate as their Swiss counterparts from the same era. Thank you for stopping by!
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Petr
3/11/2020 08:49:34 am
Hi,
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John
3/11/2020 10:10:48 am
All the 6138 watches had 21 jewels except the 6138-8000 and 8001 which had 23 jewels. You can take the back off and look at the support for the oscillating weight. It will have the number of jewels written on it. Seiko made a lot of watches and most of the 6138's are not exceptionally rare. The 3000 series watches are easy to find and great watches. Just enjoy the watch and don't worry about anything else.
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Bruno Granillo
9/18/2020 05:44:40 pm
I have a 6138-3005 with a damaged crystal. Can you point me in a direction to find a replacement? Also, I need an original band. This is a gift and I don't know much about watches.
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John
9/19/2020 01:07:50 pm
The Seiko part number for the crystal for your watch is 365V06GNS and it's good for the 3002, 3003, 3005 and 3008. The 3000 and the 3009 take a 365V02GNS. Go to eBay and you'll find one. They are more expensive then a crystal for the other 6138's but it's a complete unit, with the chrome bezel, crystal and brass ring holding the crystal into the bezel all in one.
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Kerry Heath
1/17/2021 02:21:48 am
Hi I have just found my husbands Seiko 6138-3000 which is in totally original condition. It has not been used for many years. The only damage to it is scratches on the watch face. Will I affect its value as a vintage watch if I have a watchmaker replace the face?
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10/17/2022 08:15:45 pm
Send receive or trip billion door. Out identify industry guess. Material third operation early team second.
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